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Habitat
Setup
The
habitat you develop is your turtle’s home. A
standard glass aquarium is the best solution for the
Red-Eared Sliders, unless you can provide them an
outside pond, or something else. Turtle habitats are
of two types - indoor and outdoor. The indoor ones
are very similar to fish aquariums/tanks, while the
outdoor ones resemble garden ponds.
The
glass aquarium: there is one nice aspect about the
glass aquarium, that they are easy to clean thoroughly.
The aquarium has to be clean since the health of your
turtle depends on it. Remember that the Red-Eared
Sliders are aquatic animals, and they will release
their solid and liquid waste into the water. That
creates a perfect nest to the bacteria.
Red-Eared
Sliders need a freshwater aquarium.
Basic requirements of water turtles: The following
are the basic requirements that need to be addressed
if one is to successfully keep water turtles in captivity.
15
gallons of tank size for each inch of turtle
Enough
water for them to swim (usually 4-6 inches)
A
basking area-something where they can climb onto completely
out of the water
A
basking lamp- a full spectrum fluorescent bulb that
provides both UVA and UVB rays
A
submersible heater- water temperature should be between
21.1°C-26.6°C (70°F-80°F) and a small
thermometer to keep track of the temperature
A
good filte-filter is very important
Clean
water
Tank
should be cleaned frequently (every 1-2 weeks)-depending
on how good your filter works
The
right type of food
Regular
monitoring and maintenance of animals and setup
Tank
Size And Structure
Most
turtle habitats are rectangular or square fish tanks(glass
aquariums). This shapes are preferred, because they
can be sate easily against a wall and a conserve space.
The Red-Eared Sliders grow fast the first years of
their life, and an adult can measure up to 26 cm (10
inches). The bigger
the tank is, the better it will be for the turtle.For
an adult turtle of 13 cm (5 inches) a 100L(30 gallon)
will be the minimal size. Fill up with enough water
so that the turtle can turn around if he/she were
to fall backwards(about 3/4 the length of the turtle).
Minimum
tank dimensions
Tank
length:
3-4 times the length of the turtle Tank
width: 2 times the length of the turtle
Tank
height: 1.5-2 times the length of
the turtle + 8-12 inches above the highest level the
turtle can reach in the tank
Minimum
water area dimensions
Length:
same as aboveWidth:
same as aboveHeight:
1.5-2 times the length of the turtleRemember that
if you want to add any big stone or any large decorations
that may obstruct or reduce the swimming area, make
the tank larger.
Minimum
land area dimensions
Diameter:
1.5 times the length of the turtleLand
area provide generally 25-35% of a surface area in
a turtle tank. But do make sure that you have additional
height of 10-12 inches above the land area height,
so that the turtle can’t escape.
Structure
It
is easiest to get the rectangular fish tank that is
made of glass. You can get a piece of glass as big
as required land area stuck just above the water level,
and add rocks or gravel to make a basking area for
the turtle. Most glass used for tanks are 10 mm or
above. Don’t get
the tank made in lighter glass, because it can break
under the water pressure inside!!! A
land area makes the aquarium look more attractive
and is quite functional in addition. It is an absolute
requirement if you intend to breed your turtles, as
they will need an area in which to bury their eggs.
Tank
cost: $30 and up depending on size.
Filter
cost: Filters start around $25 dollars.
Rock
or platform
cost: $20 and up. Can also use rocks from your backyard
free!
Underwater
heater
cost: from $25 and up depending on size
Full
spectrum heat lamp
cost: depending on what type you purchase, cost of
lamp runs from $25 and up. Bulbs for the lamp start
at $9 up to $45.
General
about the habitat setup (tank setup)
Thankfully,
turtle care has progressed in the last two decades.
Many different types of aquatic turtles can be raised,
maintained and bred when provided with the appropriate
environment. The most common way to keep water turtles
in captivity is in a glass aquarium. But, very functional
habitats can be constructed out of large plastic tubs,
from utility sinks, as long as the set-up meets a
few basic requirements. Selection of an appropriately-sized
tank is one of the most important elements in successful
turtle-keeping. The aquarium must be large enough
to give the turtle adequate swimming room in both
length and depth. A 110L (35 gallon) is a minimum
size tank, but bigger is always better. Only juvenile
turtles should be kept in smaller aquariums, and they
will outgrow them, so you might as well start with
a bigger tank and save yourself money! So-called "long"
or "breeder" tanks are usually better investments
than "high" aquariums, as they provide a larger surface
area for your animals. The water level should be deeper
than the turtle is wide, if the water is shallower
and the turtle manages to land upside-down in the
water it may not be able to flip back over and will
drown. Also there should be no place underwater in
the tank where the turtle could get wedged in such
a way that it cannot get to the surface to breathe
larger aquariums are definitely better. Turtles
are avid swimmers, feeding only in water, and are
religious baskers. Therefore equal amount of attention
has to be paid to both water and land areas. Land
area should be equivalent to 25-35% of the water area.
(i.e., if the water surface area [l x
b] is 800 sq. inch, then the land area can be anything
between 200-280 sq. inch).
Water
Area
The
water area should allow for unobstructed swimming,
so most equipment and decorations should be placed
along the edges. For space as well ornamental considerations,
it is recommended to distribute equipment along the
corners, or below the land area, hiding it behind
tank decorations. You can place a couple of clumps
of plants in the center of the tank to break the monotony
of empty water. Tall decorations should be put ONLY
in the edges. Avoid putting high decorations (especially
solid ones like rocks, plants being flexible are fine)
in the middle of the tank. But, the
aquarium does not need to have decorations, nor does
it require sand or gravel on the bottom. These actually
make it more difficult to clean and are not necessary
for the turtle. Many turtles will eat any water plants
that are placed in their enclosure.
Land
Area
Land
area can be made of glass, acrylic, thick wood plastic,
or merely a large stone! We personally recommend land
areas that can be anchored above the water level,
so that the space below them can be used as water
area. If you place a large stone or a series of large
stones from the base of the tank to above the water
level, they might look nice, but would eat into the
water area, requiring you to increase the overall
tank dimensions.
one necessity is an area that is totally out of the
water on which the turtle can haul out and dry off.
Worn driftwood, cork bark floats, or smooth flat rocks
work well, as they are not likely to rub or scratch
a turtle's shell as it climbs out of the water. Position
a spotlight over the rock or wood to simulate the
sun, allowing the turtle to bask. Take care not to
put the aquarium in full direct sunlight, however
if the turtle cannot get out of the sun, you may end
up with a baked dead turtle. Most turtles do very
well with this minimal set-up: a large, deep undecorated
aquarium with a spotlight over a flat rock out of
the water on which they can dry off and sun themselves.
A land area makes the aquarium look more attractive
and is quite functional in addition. It is an absolute
requirement if you intend to breed your turtles, as
they will need an area in which to bury their eggs.
With no access to a land area, a female turtle will
retain her eggs as long as possible and then drop
them into the water or on her basking area. Retaining
eggs for too long can injure a turtle. For example,
an egg might rupture while still inside the female,
leading to a massive infection.
The
size and depth of the land area is determined by the
type of turtle, larger turtles will need a deeper
area than smaller turtles to bury eggs. Also, some
turtles are more terrestrial than others, and so benefit
from a large land area. To make a land area, glue
pieces of clear plastic into place with silicone aquarium
sealant. For example, one end of the tank can be walled
off with a vertical or diagonal piece of plastic.
More intricate arrangements are also possible. As
an example, three pieces of plastic can be glued into
a "U" shape in the middle of the aquarium. This set-up
lets the turtles pass underneath, allowing them to
move from one end of the tank to the other without
going up onto the land area. Note that plastics are
flexible; when glued to glass it is possible they
will separate due to flexing if they are not supported
or if the plastic is not thick enough. Your decorations
: Land
areas are generally designed as flat pieces of glass/plastic
anchored to three sides of the tank, half an inch
above water level. This give them three-sided support
which is essential to bear the weight of stones and
turtles. Often a 2-4 inch high wall is stuck on the
side opening into water, so that the turtles don't
manage to shove/throw any stones/gravel over the side
into the water! But you could create a more natural
wall by sticking together a few medium sized stones
with strong, waterproof adhesive. Alternatively you
could design a gently sloping land area, by providing
a slight tilt towards the water to the flat glass/plastic
piece. A thin layer of stones and gravel can be stuck/placed
on this. This would provide the turtles a gripping
surface to pull themselves out of the water as also
a partially submerged area, on which they can rest
at their discretion. Based on your tank design, the
land area would be partially submerged in water or
fully above it. Eitherways it is critical to ensure
that the turtles have easy access to an area that
is completely dry. They need this area to completely
dry and bask in sunlight. It is best to place a large
flat smooth rock on which they easily clamber to dry
and bask. You could landscape the land area as creatively
as you want! Just make sure there are no sharp edges
on any decorations. And avoid gravel less than 1.5cms
in diameter.
Water
to Land Area Ramp
If
you haven't designed a sloping land area, you need
to provide a way for the turtles to climb out of the
water area onto the land area .A curved/sloping log
or plastic piece can be stuck to the land area from
one side, with the other side partially submerged
in water. Use gentle slopes/curves to ensure that
this is easy for the turtles to clamber on - you don't
want to create an obstacle course for them!
Basic
requirements
A
fully submersible water heater helps keep the water
at a reasonable temperature year-round, as many water
turtles prefer water temperatures that are above ambient
room temperature. However, the temperature of the
water will depend on the type of turtle that you keep,
and therefore you should investigate the natural environment
of your turtle, if you are not sure of its requirements.
Most underwater heaters attach to the side of an aquarium
with suction cups. If your turtle is very active,
it may become necessary to wall off the heater to
some degree to prevent the turtle from breaking it.
Also, buy an aquarium thermometer. Many heaters are
not accurate and require monitoring to assure that
the desired temperature is maintained.
A
filter of some type can also be quite useful. I prefer
the canister filter, they are a good investment. Although
their initial cost can be high, the time saved in
water and filter changes makes them well worth the
money. Many different models are available, from a
number of different manufacturers. As with aquariums,
larger is usually better. The greater the volume of
water moved and the larger the filtering surface,
the cleaner the water will remain. This will reduce
the frequency of water changes required. Undergravel
filters can be used, but often become clogged too
quickly due to the large amount of waste material
that turtles are capable of producing. A
final item that might be beneficial is a fluorescent
hood with a full-spectrum light bulb, such as a VitaliteTM.
There is considerable debate as to the effectiveness
of fluorescent full-spectrum lights in providing enough
ultra-violet radiation of the correct frequency to
stimulate production of the Vitamin D3 necessary for
proper calcium utilization. A full-spectrum light
does deliver a more natural type of light, and this
may have a beneficial psychological effect on your
turtles. A fluorescent lamp should not be used as
a replacement for a spotlight, as the fluorescent
tube does not get warm enough to be a proper basking
light. For
convenience, the light or lights over your turtle
tank can be controlled using an ordinary timing device
to turn them on in the morning and off in the evening.
The timer should be adjusted periodically to reflect
the changing length of the day. This lengthening and
shortening of the photoperiod signals the passing
of the seasons and can act as a stimulus for mating,
if you are keeping multiple turtles with the intention
of breeding them. The
set-up for your turtle should be completed and functioning
before acquiring a turtle. This allows time to monitor
for problems in filters, heaters or in the arrangement
of the tank. It is a lot harder to patch a leaking
land area when the tank is full of turtles! Having
the enclosure up and running also places less stress
on the newly arrived turtle, allowing it to adjust
more quickly to its new environment. Choosing
an appropriate turtle is very important. Final size
of the turtle is often a major factor in deciding
which turtle to keep. A number of the more commonly
available turtles can grow to a large size. Red-Eared
Sliders may reach a foot or longer in size, depending
on the specific species, while snapping turtles can
get even larger. Do not buy a turtle just because
it looks interesting, find out what type of turtle
it is, read up on it, and decide if you can provide
it with a good home. A number of good books on turtles
have been published within the last few years. The
most comprehensive is Carl Ernst and Roger Barbour's
"Turtles of the World". More recently they, along
with Jeffrey Lovich, wrote "Turtles of the United
States and Canada". Both of these books are oriented
towards the natural history of the turtle.
Adult females of Red-Eared Sliders can grow to be
30 cm (16 inches) in length; males tend to be smaller
than females. A turtle that is just about indestructible
is the common snapper but, like the sliders and painted
turtles, will require a large amount of room. Eventually
it will outgrow most aquariums. More exotic aquatic
turtles are available occasionally through reptile
dealers. Food
for turtles varies widely, depending on the type of
turtle that is being kept. Some turtles are mainly
carnivorous, while others are omnivorous and will
eat just about anything you give them. Basically,
it pays to determine the food requirements of the
type of turtle you want to keep. Some common items
are various types of lettuces such as Romaine or Red-leaf
(avoid Iceberg), collard greens, or finely chopped
mixed vegetables. Many turtles will eagerly consume
earthworms, small feeder guppies, raw beef heart,
cooked chicken or a low-fat dog food. A number of
commercial products are available, such as Tetra's
ReptoMin, Wardley's Reptile Ten, and Purina's Trout
Chow. Above all, remember to provide a varied diet.
Do not allow your turtles to fixate on one particular
food item to the exclusion of all others. More in
FEEDING. If
a well-balanced diet is provided, most turtles, especially
adults, will not require a lot of additional vitamin
supplementation. However, rapidly growing hatchlings
and females producing eggs can benefit from extra
vitamins and calcium. One easy means of providing
more calcium is in the form of a calcium block. Calcium
carbonate, in the form of "Plaster of Paris", is mixed
with water, poured into molds, and allowed to solidify.
A vitamin powder can be added while the "Plaster of
Paris" is still liquid. Art supply stores are a good
source of "Plaster of Paris". Before purchasing it,
check the ingredients list to verify that no anti-fungal
compounds have been added. Adult
turtles do not require daily feeding. Once every second
or third day, they should be fed as much as they will
eat in a few minutes. Do not overfeed your turtles.
Turtles will over-eat and become fat, with the same
consequences to their health as with any other overweight
animal. Fat turtles can be recognized by their inability
to retract their head and legs fully, or at least
not all at the same time. Hatchlings and small juveniles
can be fed daily until their growth rate begins to
slow down. I
recommend that you feed your animals in a separate
container or deep as turtles can be rather messy eaters.
Broken up food bits will quickly foul the water if
you feed turtles in their aquarium, forcing a water
change every couple of days. If the turtles are fed
outside the tank, and it contains a large filter,
the water may remain clear for months at a time. However,
the filter itself should be cleaned routinely to prevent
a buildup of debris. Similarly, at least a portion
(one-third to one-half) of the water volume should
be replaced every few weeks. This prevents the accumulation
of compounds that might be detrimental to your turtle.
Infrequent water changes may also result in alterations
in water pH that could affect a turtle's health.
In
conclusion, water turtles can do quite well in captivity
if their needs and lifestyles are taken into account.
If they are provided with a good diet, clean water,
light, and enough room, they will more than repay
you for the moderate amount of work that it takes
to maintain them successfully. But please, when acquiring
a turtle, consider carefully your ability to provide
it with a reasonable living environment. If you are
willing to make that commitment, you will not regret
it.
Habitat
Decorations
A
lot of turtle literature suggests keeping the turtle
tank devoid of any gravel/rocks/shells/tank decorations.
I feel that your turtle deserves a more "homely" habitat.
A pleasantly decorated turtle tank would also provide
"ornamental" value in your house.
Don'ts
for tank decorations
• Never pick up something from the road/park/river/beach
etc and put into the tank without sterilization
• Never put any decoration into the tank that
has a diameter less than 2cm
• Avoid any decorations that have sharp, hard
pointed edges
• Avoid any enclosure kind of decoration under
which the turtle can get stuck!
Budget Turtle Housing
If you can't afford a bigger tank at this time but need a bigger tank for your turtle, look what other turtle owners have come up with.
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Turtle Budget housing
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